I leave Ankara fairly early, but apparently not early enough to avoid the rush hour. However, once I make it out of the city center proper the traffic eases up and I find my way easily. There is a detour through one of the far out suburbs and I get to see some newly finished apartment buildings.
Westerners are often shocked to see whole suburbs with buildings like this. I guess it reminds most people too much of public housing projects with the problems that tend to come with them. Well, in some parts of the world moving into such a building is definitely progress. It all depends on what you lived in before. I actually grew up in a building similar to the ones in the picture. Back then it was a nice neighborhood and I had lots of friends a few minutes away. I certainly never saw a problem in it and it made for a pretty happy childhood.
Once I’m out of the greater Ankara area the traffic dies down and it turns into a pleasant ride.
About 20km shy of Nallıhan I stop at a nice view point across a lake that was formed by the Sarıyar Dam. The lake is surrounded by hills with very interesting colors.
The ride remains scenic
until eventually I have to merge onto E90. I wasn’t looking forward to that part and the traffic is as heavy as expected.
Not long after I get on E90 I see a couple of cows about 200-300m ahead on the right hand side. This is nothing unusual in these parts of the world. I have a healthy respect for any kind of animal next to a road but there is simply no way that you can hit the breaks every time you see one. It just happens all the time and chances are you will get hit by someone from behind who doesn’t expect you to break. So it’s a judgment call. However, something about these two cows alarms me and in a split second I run through possible scenarios and evasive maneuvers I could do. Decision made: I do go off the gas, tap the breaks a few times, turn on the hazard lights, and get all the way over to the right. Sure enough the cows bolt across the road. The second cow gets hit by a huge semi coming from the opposite direction and launches into the air with a primeval roar. I hear the car behind me hitting the breaks hard. Luckily, the cows trajectory doesn’t cross my chosen path. I turn around and see the guy in the car behind me with a look of horror on his face. He manages to avoid the cow as well. There is something a bit unnerving about seeing a cow flying in your direction when you are on a motorbike. The traffic is too heavy to stop safely and there is nothing I can do anyway. I just hope that someone has a gun to put the cow out of its misery.
So, I press on and a few kilometers short of Bursa I turn left up the side of Mount Uludağ to Cumalıkızık. The village is more than 700 years old with narrow cobblestone streets flanked by Ottoman period houses. I find a semi flat spot to park the bike and walk around a bit to find a room for the night. After a bit of bargaining I strike a deal with the owner of the Konak Pansiyon, there is even a place to park the bike in a gated courtyard. Trouble is that a stream is going down the narrow cobblestone street that leads up to gate. The only other way around is blocked by construction. I realize that an uphill cobblestone street and water are not a good combination, especially if there is enough water to completely cover the street and I can’t see where I’m going. I assume the water is only temporary but when I ask around with my non-existent Turkish I am made to believe that the water won’t go away. It’s been a very long, hot day with an airborne cow thrown in and I just want to get out of the motorcycling clothes. So, despite knowing better I decide to ride up the street. I start out pretty well, working my way around the tourists in the street. Maybe 15 yards from the gate my back wheel slips in a hole hidden by the water. I am pretty fast and just can’t hold her on the slippery cobblestones. So, down I go. There are plenty of people around to stare but more importantly to help me with the bike. We get it in the courtyard and I inspect the damage. I’m fine but one of the panniers is a bit smashed up and the rear light and license plate assembly is broken. Nothing major.
After a shower I try to get a beer but it turns out this is a dry village and tea will have to do. There is now a lot less water in the street as well and I could have just waited and got the bike up safely 
The picture below shows the scene of the accident after the water has gone done.
Cumalıkızık is a lovely village and I walk around for a while and look at the Ottoman houses in varying stages of repair and later watch the old guys play games and chat in a tea house next to the mosque.
This was certainly an interesting day. I had to make two split second decisions. I’m just glad I got the first one right
